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Not everybody who reads leather is into reading. Everybody who is into leather is a smart human being. Let me lay it down for you in a long and drawn out way.

Here is a cool guy, but I guarantee you've never heard of him

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His name is Gabriel Tarde. He was one of a few voices who were critical of what would become the dominant mode of thought during the 20th century. He saw society as a collection of individual actors with their own dispositions. This is counter to what the boss at the time, Emile Durkheim thought. You might be able to blame Mr. Durkheim for what was perceived as collectivist, unified, and zombiefied society. You see, when we take a stance against mass produced leather and provide custom fitting for the individual, we're appropriating the old tech, with a bit of the new. Sure, there's a lot to be worried about when it comes to personalization, but that's not the reason leather works.

Here's another guy who had some similar ideas. His name is Lousi Althusser. In his famous essay on the ideological state apparatus, which he blamed for reproducing the relations of capitalism, he outlined his concept of interpellation. Now, Tarde was famous for describing a magnetic property in the organization of society. Althusser's work is an extension of the idea of interpellation.

See, when you buy a leather jacket, you've been interpellated into a vision of yourself and the future, which by buying the jacket you're consenting to. That's what makes brands so effective by the way. They are basically guaranteeing a magical property for you when you buy their stuff.

So when you buy a leather jacket, you're not just buying comfort and style. you're buying a lifestyle. you're buying this:

as in 'are you buying this? This guy thinks he's cool'. The trouble is, as far as anyone can tell he IS cool.

If you're thinking, oh not another one of those, slow down. I'm here to tell you that you can use this to your advantage. You're at war against a ton of different memes (medium video explaining the concept) competing for your mind. They need you to reproduce them. Buying for you, especially buying a custom leather jacket, positions yourself as a strong individual.  The thing about memes is that you can't escape them. This looks like a condition of the social environment. It's cruel and heartless, I know, but we want you to thrive.

This is where the Japanese concept of Kaizen comes in. This video claims to teach you the true meaning of it.

It's not as complicated as this graph. this graph explains how kaizen works as a reproductive/generative force in personal development. We're going to do something slightly different with it. Here is the concept at its most basic: kaizen means continuous improvement, you should be doing something every day to move you towards your goals, the method encourages taking incredibly small actions, but making them a habit. For instance, if you want to do 100 pushups, you should start by doing one pushup a day. It then becomes easier, from that point, to do 2,3 or more pushups. Over time, you'll develop the strength to tackle the challenge of 100.

Taken together, kaizen and interpellation create a constellation of forces which ultimately draw you into the reality you're stuck in. If you're here buying a leather jacket, that means you're leaning a certain way, you're choosing a certain reality. Truth be told, I hate seeing someone who hasn't fully committed to their role. I especially have trouble seeing a leather jacket that was just purchased on the impulse towards something greater, as if the purchase was a temporary manifestation of an individual on a longer project. Buying and customizing a leather jacket solidifies the reality you've chosen. It makes the role you're stepping into more believable. I hope I've made some aspects of that role clearer through my posts.

Of course, you come from a different place, you're bringing your own style. I get that. However, you're probably after something like freedom.

We need the principle of Kaizen here to be able to conceive of the path to freedom, which a leather jacket is definitely on. Now, you can think of buying into certain realities like this:

Or like this:

Take one step closer to freedom, whatever that means to you. If you're here now, looking for it, take a chance. Freedom is worth it.

In summary, there was a cool guy in the past who was mocked into obscurity. Today, his theories have explanatory power. One day, a guy named Louis tried something similar to great effect. Now we have a way to understand the reproductive forces of capitalism, as well as the formation of identity. Tarde also laid the groundwork for what is know as quantum social science today. Finally, the principle of small action known as kaizen can act as a propelling force from moving between one identity to another, and giving us freedom from our existing future. Act now, before it's too late to change.

Confidence

Listen, everyone will tell you that you need to wear attitude with your leather. In case you can't tell, life is good in a leather jacket. Relax, you've made it. Enjoy your cool life. At Men's Fashion Magazine there's big talk that leather jackets are all about the rebel, the punk, the generally tough guy who will kick your ass if you look at them funny. This is patently untrue. Though they trace the rise of the leather jacket from the 1950's to now, there has been leather and leather wearers who are free in other ways.

That's what the leather jacket is all about, folks! Freedom, baby! I remember when I got my first leather jacket. I grabbed it at a garage sale festival (they exist) and it was the smoothest, sexiest thing I had ever seen. I can wear it out with almost anything and turn heads. If only the weather would cooperate.

All that being said, let's get down to the bread and butter of style.

If you haven't figured out how to pick one yet, head over to this post on finding the best bang for your buck.

Shirts

Don't laugh! Not everybody opts for a shirt. Sometimes no shirt can be sexy.

See?

Anyway, pick your damn shirt to match the color of your leather. I don't mean wear black on black, which you can do, but just be smart about it. No neon green unless you're at a rave.

Pants

If you've got a bomber jacket, grab some casual pants: jeans, leather, or some other casual two-leger. See those jeans above? That works. Check out the dress pants under CONFIDENCE too. you'll need it to rock dress pants and jeans. Trust me, once they're in front of you you'll be confused. Here's a rule: if you are worried about the fashion police bothering you, don't. If you don't care, are free, then do it.

Overall

Let's break this down quickly for you. The leather jacket has a ton of ornaments. It has EXTRAS. That's a way of saying 'Yo, I AM' in a certain way. This jacket would not work with dress pants and shoes because they are form different worlds. Think of yourself as an actor; you have to stick to your role. So before you go out, choose who you want to be and 'role' with it.

If this hasn't helped you, check out the Art Of Manliness as they explain not only why you should buy, but the several types of leather jackets. Stay free.

Last week we did a brief history of leather. Today, I'd like to take you on an inspirational trip through the leather business as a whole. Although the industry is commonly met with hatred, I won't be touching on it. Industry in and of itself is not negative. It can have a positive impact on the world. We will be looking at some examples and discussing the positive aspects of the leather business. Since this is a trip I encourage you to browse through the links as they come. The articles I've assembled are covered with images of the leather world. We are taking several trips to tanneries throughout the globe. We'll be talking about history again, but this time a few specifics and some general theories regarding business and community.

In From Hides to Handbags: Inside a Moroccan Leather Tannery Flora the Explorer creates a photo journal of her trip to Fez, Morocco. In Fez, the tanning district has remained unchanged since the 12th century. She realizes that the leather industry of Fez is the city's lifeblood. When Claire Burns looked at the tanning industry of medieval Britain she found something similar. She relates that "The location of a tannery is heavily based on the requirements of a nearby river or stream, cattle which could supply the hide, and of course oak trees which would supply the bark needed for the tanning process." Tanning industries of old were a major investment for a community. The trade was able to support the population. The fact that Fez continues to exist suggests that it is possible for a town to sustain itself with one industry for a long time. Flora also remarks that she felt as if the people were going about their daily lives as they tended to the tanning process.

The Shoe Snob takes a trip to the Ilcea leather factory in Milan. I want to take a time out and explain a bit of business theory and how the event of the Shoe Snob visiting the tannery suggests a central principle of good business practice. First of all, the shoe snob realized that he was going to need better suppliers to compete with the big boys in the leather industry. Over the years of posting on his blog he must have grown a good following in the leather industry. It was so good, in fact, that he drew the attention of the Ilcea factory who sent him an email offering information on the tanning process.

You see, the story the Shoe Snob tells us about the Ilcea factory is about relationships. When it first began, the factory was known for distributing quality leather products to none other than Ferragamo. For those of you who don't know, that is the name of a brand of shoes that became popular in the 1920's with the classiest people alive. One day, Ilcea's main boss died and left the two remaining founders to operate it. Unfortunately, one had no interest in the business and sold his shares to the other. The remaining founder began to sell off the company piecemeal, slowly destroying the existing business relationships. When another leather company heard that it was for sale, it bought it up and began to rebuild relationships. Even through the magic of the internet businesses can participate in making friends and maintaining relationships. How long do you think the business relationships have gone on in Fez?

It's not enough to start your village with the material resources laying around. Everyone needs everyone else, which means that above all, our relationships are our best resource. Although we bring quality leather goods, they can't exist without you, without the rest of the world.

Let's take this even further by introducing Cordoba. In the Gentleman's Gazette Schneider looks at the history of the Spanish town and its leather. He tells us that the leather there was widely known for its quality. What eventually set it apart, however, was its ties to Spanish Royalty, who spread throughout the kingdom. Businesses today try to use shout outs to get their messages heard. This is a subform of appealing to royalty. However, it is possible that relationships cultivated with powerful people become insanely beneficial. In some cases they can radically alter the town. Consider Amazon's search for a new headquarters. They put out a request for proposal where cities across the globe have to court the company into staying in their metropolis. In theory, this bondage will be mutually beneficial. Imagine the benefits to merchants who live in the same area as the Amazon headquarters. Although I'd love to talk about the destabilizing effects of the online marketplace, I'll leave it up to you to imagine the fate of Fez.

I want to include another photo trip. It's worth going to these place sin your mind to see the whole of the industry. For instance, you can get a sense for the labor required to produce the quality goods that you wear. Many ancient texts recommend that we look at the entire chain that led to the creation of a thing. In this case, our trip has already talked about society, geography, and trade (in both senses of the word). I am a visual person. I think anyone interested in their appearance is at least a bit visual in their thinking. I found the photos easier to understand. Language is just a poor approximation. try this video on for size too. It looks at the leather industry in Pakistan. By now, you should have a general idea of how the leather industry works. You should be able to see the interconnections industry and community that Flora expertly touches on throughout her article.

 Leather as clothing can serve to produce and reproduce relationships. I hope to make it clear exactly the kinds of relationships on sale here. That will require a deeper look into the symbolism of leather. It was important to set up the history of leather, where we saw the tanning industry appear lightning-quick.  Today I brought up how businesses like these are tied to their locations and their relations. Someday soon I hope to explain what this industry means on many levels. I will be following the chain of reference that leads to leather, the same way I am following the chain of materials and processes.

Anyway, I hope you enjoyed this post. Feel free to comment on it. Check out the rest of the blog if you haven't already. More to come next week.

Everyone is a beginner at something. If you're doing your research before buying a leather jacket, good for you! Here are 5 tips to consider before you buy.

1. Avoid Chemically Treated Leather

If you’re buying a pricey item, you’re less likely to see this. At the higher price bracket you’ll be dealing with differences of grain, while quality is pretty high. At this point, it’s more about which look you enjoy and how it feels to wear and touch.

When you feel the leather, it should feel smooth and soft. If it feels oily or looks like plastic, then avoid it at all costs.

2. Mind the Details

You want to look at every detail of the jacket to determine its quality. When designers create their jackets, if they are looking to create a high-quality piece they rarely skimp on the details. Usually the first thing to go is the zipper. If you see a good quality zipper, you can bet that the leather jacket is quality.

After you’ve checked the zipper, check the lining. You want to know if there are two layers to the inner lining, one for the body and one for the sleeves.

Are the linings smooth or crunchy? Look for smooth linings.

3. Does it Fit Right?

You want the jacket to be tight, but you don’t need to sacrifice comfort for style.

You should be able to bend your arms comfortably, even jump around like an animal. A good leather jacket will work with you. If you plan on wearing a dress shirt with your leather jacket, prepare yourself by bringing a dress shirt to buy your new jacket.

If you wear a t-shirt instead of a hoodie, you run the risk of buying a jacket that is too tight.

4. Color is Important

It’s safe to go with black and brown. Everyone understands that leather jackets are black or brown. Anything outside of that and you’ll be turning heads more than usual. It also doesn’t let you get away with wearing the same thing every day. People will start to know you as the guy with the red jacket. This could be cool. Just be careful with the color of your jacket, because it will be one of the first things people notice and last things they remember.

5. Price Isn't Everything

Just because something fetches a high price doesn’t make it the best. The same goes for cheaper jackets. It ultimately comes down to your discernment and taste. You can find extremely high quality jackets for a good price, you just have to know how to look. Hopefully we have given you some insight into your search for the perfect leather jacket.

How was leather first made and discovered? How has leather changed throughout history? How old is leather? Well, to start, a leather coat is just a fur coat without the hair.

You've probably seen something like this before

 Or maybe this

These are called tanning racks and they help leather makers clean and shape the skin of the animal using sharp tools.

Truth be told, leather making hasn't changed much since it began over 2 million years ago. While stone-age man, Australopithecus Habilis, roamed the Earth they seemed to develop a diet that increasingly incorporated meat. However, since they didn't have sharp claws or teeth they had to invent tools to penetrate the skin of their prey. We know that they succeeded because of artefacts we've discovered.

Another hominid group came on the scene and started successfully hunting and killing their prey. They had more sophisticated tools for butchering and skinning. Some of them lived in tent-like structures, kind of like tanning racks, that would uphold furs to serve as insulation and support for tanning. By keeping a fire in or around these tents, the skins were tanned and cured over time. 

Cue the Neanderthals. They figured out a ton of great tools for hunting and skinning. They had a lot of this stuff figured out around 100,000 years ago. They were even able to expand into the cold tundra.

In 3300BC a man by the name of Otzi dies while crossing the alps. He was fully covered in leather. This just goes to show that leather is a damn good material if you are a badass. It must have been cool to cross the alps wearing the most high-tech gear known to man and to die doing so.

Obviously, a lot of information was written on leather. It was a great way of keeping information over time. The aboriginals of today have wampum belts which date back from pre-historic times. Some of them are symbols of treaties made with Canada. Some leather can last forever. Some leatherworkers were even smart enough to inscribe the methods for making leather. they drew diagrams of how to do it.

Here's a brief explanation of the leather making principle. By the way, if they didn't figure out how to clean and tan the skins, they would just putrefy. You need to skin an animal and pluck out the fur. Though the fur can be taken off a bit at a time, it's a lot easier to clean it off, blood and all, in water and then in a vat of lime. The lime solution will clean the fur off the skin. then you can start hanging out to dry, and to eventually be tanned and shaped and made smooth with different techniques. It was also good to cover the skin in the tannins of different barks, leaves, twigs, fruits and such, Thus, tanning leather. The guy who accused Socrates of ruining the youth was a tanner.

Eventually, different earth salts were used to tan the leathers. In Ancient Egypt, where the technique of earth salts originated, leather was being used for shoes, gloves, buckets, bottles, and military equipment. The Romans used leather widely as well. In 800 BC the Sumerians captured this recipe for tanning freshly slaughtered ox hide. “This skin you will take it, then you will drench it in pure pulverised Nisaba flour, in water, beer and first quality wine. With the best fat of a pure ox, the alum of the land of the Hittites and oak galls, you will press it and you cover the bronze kettle drum with it”.

Over time, leather industries started to form. In the 8th century Spain received the silver and leather industries, which would go on to shape the country. By the 11th century

Three tanning processes exist: the oil process or chamoising, the mineral (alum) process or tawing, and the vegetable process or tanning.

In the 1200's Marco Polo communicates that leather is amazing after smelling it off birch bark. Furthermore, during the plague, people actually hid in the leather district because they believed the smell would protect them. Apparently the smell of leather being made is pretty good. 

As history moves forward rich merchants begin getting large orders for leather, and monks are starting to be recognized for their craftsmanship. Different tanning centers began to form especially around England and Spain. It became such an economic imperative that in 1392 the butchers of London were ordered to deposit their skins at the leather market. 

It happens relatively quickly in leather's history that Kings and Queens are offering monopoly rights on the sale of different types of leather and methods of tanning. The understanding of leather work was not great among brits for instance. It took the tanners time to learn some processes that were ancient in Spain. Even now, I suspect, some leather methods are kept secret for this reason. Leather work is extremely ancient, certain techniques must be preserved because they represent the livelihood of a family or people in some cases. 

Mind you, even before industrialization tanning families were very wealthy because leather was sold to the upper classes, and tanning was a subtle art. Consider that in 1754 the Royal Society for the engagement of Arts, Manufacturers, and Commerce was founded in London. This connotes wealthy businessman lobbying the royal family to support their interests. Leather spawned and still spawns empires. 

After the empires started to spread, especially into America, science started to apply itself faster to leather making. First came the patents for leather drums and other leather tanning methods. Scientists like Humphrey, who invented the miner's lamp, and was knighted for it, also made headway into new methods for tanning. Others discovered chemical dyes. William Perkins invented a color of purple that fundamentally altered leather making from then on. There's a book about it too.

In 1874 the first research institute of leather was founded in Vienna. It's called the Vienna Research institute.

For almost two centuries, the scientific pursuit of better leather has not slowed the leather industry. Today, there are over 100 players in the leather market. Any significant innovations in technique or understanding could prove the difference in the long run. However, in this post we failed to look at the changing fashions and tastes of consumers of leather. Perhaps leather will undergo significant changes through the advent of genetic engineering or 3-d printing. Who knows? As of now, the leather industry is marked by a deep history older than humanity. As we wear our leather, let's not forget our ancestors who managed to piece this together with sticks and stones.  

If you liked this post be sure to check out other posts at Lusso Leather. If you are seeking more leather knowledge see this highly informational post on the history of leather done by Mike Redwood, the greatest living leather industry expert.

The lining is structurally and fashionably important for the jacket, as it adds structure and weight to it. A jacket with lining is heavier, warmer and has a thick look thus it lays nicely over the body contours.
The lining provides a smoother and clean finish to the jackets by concealing interlinings, raw edges and padding and it also extends the life of the jacket.

Different materials are used for Linings like:

Taffeta - fine, crisp, plain-woven fabric having lustrous surface and is usually associated with luxury garments
Types- yarn dyed and piece dyed.

Cons- wrinkles and creases easily , difficult to iron, Gives cooler touch on first wear.


100% Cotton - natural breathable fabric that is perfect for linings, imparts a luster finish and reduces wearing strain on the jackets.

Cons- wrinkles easily and also shrink after washing


Poly-Cotton – a harmonious blend of polyester and cotton, strong as well as long-lasting and it is wrinkle free.

Cons- uncomfortable for wearing for long periods of time, unable to sustain high temperatures.


Fleece - soft and fluffy lining that offers the warmth of wool but without the weight. Dries quickly, can also be machine washed.

Cons- Doesn't breathe well, not windproof . can only be used with a wind and water resistant outer shell. generates lot of static electricity prone to collecting dust, lint and pet hair.


Wool Blend - Blend of natural and man-made fibers. Used in clothing that is worn to provide warmth

Cons- requires proper care and maintenance, should be brushed regularly to prevent accumulation of dust and soil. dry cleaned once or twice in a year.

Fake Fur – Made of polyster also called fun fur or faux fur. It is warm and inexpensive and has dense look and has better abrasion resistance.

Cons- not allows the skin to breath, not as insulating as real fur.

- Soft, thick polyester fabric that has similar looks and feels like real sheep skin. Can be hand or machine washed. The fabric has a dense pile, fluffy texture, soft, has density and heat retention.

Cons- straw and dirt stick to this lining.

Cow

Most preferred type of leather. Readily available, thick, durable and easy to maintain. Cost-effective, and relatively soft.

Goat

Smooth and soft fine grain, easily available, strong yet flexible and water resistant. Light weight and resilient leather.

Sheep

Thin and plush leather, extremely comfortable, soft and light-weight but delicate to use. Mostly used in garments and purses. Sheepskin shearlings can be used with wool inside and leather outside.


Deer

Highly resilient, abrasion resistant and naturally water friendly. It is stretchable and breathable. Very strong leather yet soft and supple.




Grain Vs Split Leather


Full Grain

Top layer of the leather with only the hair removed.
Mostly used for Aniline leather and semi aniline leather.


Split

It is the inner and least fibrous layer of the leather.
It is referred to as split leather, split velour or suede




Qualities of Leather

1. Aniline Leather
2. Semi-Aniline
3. Milled Leather
4. Nappa
5. Split Leather

Custom Tailoring vs Mass Production

Ever since the rise of consumer culture, mass production has been a key tool for clothing manufacture. Mass production is the result of basic economics, so goods tend to conform to industry standards. For instance, a leather jacket fresh off an assembly line will be designed to fit as many people as possible. Sometimes jackets are designed to fit a certain body type. When it comes to looking your best, however, it’s not effective to wear everybody’s shirt.

Also, if you buy the mass model, you’ll be missing out on some details that make or break your new jacket. For instance, there are three grades of leather. It doesn’t matter the type of animal the leather came from.

Here’s how you can quickly tell if a leather jacket is quality: See it, smell it, feel it.

Quality materials have a singular color. Sometimes, manufacturers cover up their mistakes with chemicals. That’s why you need to smell it. If it smells like chemicals, it has been put through a chemical bath. Finally, touch it to see if it is smooth and flexible. Poor quality leather will be stiff and hard to move.

When you buy custom, you choose the outcome of the process.

You choose the cut, style, and extras. You can choose the material. If you’ve found a good craftsman or manufacturer, you’ll score amazing material. It is worth it when your leather lasts forever. Your leather doesn’t need to be a biohazard. It doesn’t need to be a confusing purchase either. With a custom job, you get your jacket made for you.

If that sounds like something interesting to you, go for it. Maybe you can find the right leather, or the right tailor, or the right style. Good for you. If not, a custom jacket is the best bang for your buck. You get the expertise and connections of the leather industry, without the hassle of becoming an expert in several complicated fields.

Seems like a no-brainer to me.